Padharo mharo des...

And there I was, in a city that claims to be PINK but which is more on the lines of a PEACH gone wrong; in a city of Royalty and Rajputness, in a State that the world associates with leheriya and bandhini; in the very capital of the land of camels, deserts and dunes. Yes, there I was, in good ol' Jaipur, or as I enjoyed calling it all through the trip like an excited firangoo tourist --- JAIPORRRRE!

Cruising along the snake-like highway, I was excited about the weather and the shopping, about the dances and the bursts of color I was going to imbibe, the forts, monuments and villages I was going to visit, the spa I was going to get spoilt at, the camels that I was going to see more than the oxen and about the peacocks that were going to be more rampant and visible than the Great Indian Street Dog! What was the least exciting thing on my agenda? Rajasthani cuisine!

I have to add before I continue that this latest trip to Rajasthan or rather the city of Jaipur busted many myths and deflated several expectations but at the same time surprised me pleasantly on many accounts as well. After all, it was an entire decade ago that I had last set foot in this state.

I am, for no specific reason, dividing this post and my experiences into: The Great, The Good, The Bad and The Sad. So here goes:

THE GREAT

Anyone and everyone I spoke to about my weekend trip to Jaipur, categorically told me only one thing: "Go to Rawat's! And have the Pyaaz ki kachori there!" Luckily for me, many more in our travel posse had been advised the same and so the historic, rather exasperating search for Rawat's was not my sole responsibility. [How it was less than 5 minutes from the hotel we were staying at is another story!]

Anyways, what I expected Rawat's to be was some shady road-side eatery but what it turned out to be instead was a massive building, that was neat and hygienic:

What I ate here:

1. Pyaaz ki kachori, as that is what it is famous for, and boy, deservingly so! For those of you who do not know, a Pyaaz ki Kachori is a Puff pastry of sorts that is stuffed with spicy, caramelized onions, served with an even spicier potato curry. I was almost skeptical before digging into this Jaipur speciality but OH MY GOD, this stuff was ACTUALLY great!

2. Dal-baati-chorma is a traditional Rajasthani thaali or food platter that literally translates as a lentil, which is savory, baati or wheat balls that are cooked in ghee (clarified butter) and may be stuffed, sweet or spicy, and finally the chorma or churma, which is a sweet wheat flour halwa.

When I first saw this thaali before me, I nearly fainted looking at the oodles of ghee, especially because I am in the health conscious phase. I had to muster courage before partaking of this meal, but once I did, it was hard to not savor these alien flavors that blended so well it led to just that taste-bud bungee jump I had hoped for in my last post.

Baati

Broken Baati stuffed with cashews, heeng, etc

I am not very big on desi food but must admit that thus far Rajasthani food had surprised me, and more than just pleasantly! I had once said in a post that there is no better way to connect with a city than to walk in it. The next best way is to sample the local food. Jaipur and I, oh we were connecting well, and how! :)

THE GOOD


1. Laal Maans or Lamb Curry was one of these famous spicy meat curries I had heard of and was ecstatic to taste when I found it in our dinner buffet at the hotel. Full of red chillies that impart not just taste but color to the dish, very tender and extremely succulent, this curry is a worthy try, except for a consequential runny nose and watery eyes thanks to the heat factor!

2. Gatte ki Subzi is not really a vegetable (subzi) so to speak as it is made of small cylinders of chickpea flour (besan), but subzi or not, this veggie dish with all that spice shook me hard and woke my senses up! Another must try, which makes it to my "The Good" and not "The Great" list solely because I am not the greatest fan of spicy food.

3. The Camels, some of which had been so well decorated, it made the firangoo in me jump with glee!

Cannot see the artwork too well but the shaded camel has his fur cut out in that design. Very innovative, I say!

THE BAD

1. Pataashi is the Rajasthani term for Gol Gappas/ Puchkas/ Paani Puris that I tried from a road side vendor and oh dear God, they were not just bad, but throat achingly unpleasant! Perhaps, the vendor was not a good enough one, but then again they serve only aata pataashi and not the suji ones that I prefer! Can be given a miss, if your preferences are the same as mine.

2. Bajre ki Khichdi - At the cost of sounding downright obnoxious, this was pure village food that even villagers mustn't be consuming in Rajasthan any more! Grey and rather depressing to look at, it was even more depressing to taste! Did not risk clicking a picture lest the camera lens might take offense and crack ;)

Thankfully this list ends just at 2!

THE SAD

I came to Jaipur expecting to see peacocks scuttling on the road sides and hoping to buy enough leheriya sarees to last me a lifetime, neither of which I had the good fortune to obtain, and that for me is just sad!

That aside, Jaipur and Rajasthan left me content and satisfied with the experiences and I must give it to the Rajasthani food that gave me that punch I was searching for!

And so to end on a pink note, check out the picture below:

Tee heeee :D

Padharo tharo dessss, I say!